Pimkie joins Shein in a cooperation – and the French fashion industry is not happy about it. The deal is pitched as a survival strategy for Pimkie, but critics see it as betrayal. Is this simply “selling out” for quick revenue, or a blueprint for how ultra-fast-fashion platforms will reshape the European market?
Blueprint or Sellout?
In business, it’s nothing new for brands to prioritize survival over tradition. Some call that “selling out.” But the case of French fashion brand Pimkie raises the stakes: the company now faces lawsuits and industry exile over a deal that could fundamentally redefine its future.
Pimkie was founded in 1971 by Gérard Mulliez and until 2023 belonged to the Mulliez family. Years of economic decline and store closures forced a sale to new majority shareholders under CEO Salih Halassi. To protect jobs, the Mulliez family association signed a deal offering Pimkie access to €140 million in funds.
Fast-forward to 2025: Pimkie is still struggling. Halassi has admitted EBITDA losses of minus €40 million, with online sales making up only five percent of business. Faced with that reality, the choice becomes stark: stay small and risk collapse, or embrace a partnership that promises online growth to 30 percent of sales and access to 160 markets in just a few years.
Enter Shein’s Xcelerator
That is what Pimkie did by joining Shein’s global Xcelerator program. Launched in the UK, later rolled out to China and France, the initiative gives brands access to Shein’s supply chain, shipping network, and enormous shopper base.
The Xcelerator runs on two tracks. The Creative-Led Partnership supports new designers by letting them focus on creativity while Shein handles production, logistics, and global sales. The Independent Brand Builder caters to established labels, offering full control over IP and operations while plugging into Shein’s supply chain, marketing power, and access to more than 160 markets.
Case studies highlight the impact: UK label Missguided joined the program in 2023 after bankruptcy and is now projected to reach $250 million in revenue within two years. Its founder, Nitin Passi, also launched a new brand with Shein as an investor. That venture, Sumwon, founded in 2023, is already projected to surpass $3 billion within its first three years. In short, Xcelerator isn’t just shelf space on Shein – it’s a plug-and-play system for global fashion growth.
And that’s precisely why Pimkie’s move matters. For the brand, the partnership promises digital transformation and renewed relevance. For Shein, it’s a clever strategy: every alliance with an established label buys local trust and legitimacy – assets the company badly needs after years of criticism over working conditions, environmental harm, and data concerns.
In other words: Pimkie is betting on survival while Shein is executing a blueprint for embedding itself into Europe’s fashion ecosystem.
Backlash from the Establishment
Not everyone applauds. The Association Familiale Mulliez (AFM) is suing Pimkie, claiming the partnership violates their sale agreement. The €140 million was meant to preserve independence – not to tie the brand to an ultra-fast-fashion giant that much of the French industry wants banned by law.
And the pressure isn’t just legal. Pimkie has been expelled from the Federation of Clothing Labels, part of the French Alliance du Commerce. The exclusion was unanimous – a clear message from the traditional industry: work with Shein, and you’re out.
Pimkie Pushes Back
So far, Pimkie shows no sign of retreat. CEO Halassi insists the company remains independent and retains creative control. Rather than destroying jobs, the Shein partnership is expected to create at least 50 new positions in France. As for losing federation membership, Halassi dismissed the impact: in his view, the group never offered any real support, while Shein is providing tangible backing.
More Than One Brand’s Gamble
The Pimkie-Shein rift is part of a larger confrontation. It’s not just about one struggling French brand. It reflects the collision between traditional European businesses – with deep roots and strong institutions – and fast-moving, mostly Asian platforms that thrive on scale, speed, and new distribution models.
For legacy brands, Shein represents a threat to status and tradition. For struggling players, Shein’s Xcelerator offers an easy plug-in to global reach and a ready-made infrastructure. The blueprint is simple: let local brands keep their identity while riding Shein’s system.
The question is whether Pimkie is the exception – or the first of many. If the model works, Shein won’t just be rescuing a struggling fast fashion brand. It might just be rewriting the rules of market entry for fashion in Europe.
Also, check out our “Let´s talk marketplace” podcast news episode where we dive deeper into the topic.